After a bit of a delay, Summer is finally here, so what say we start with some classic summer spirits from our friends south of the border. That's right, Tequila! And its misunderstood cousin (well, more like parent- we'll get into that), Mezcal!
Right off the bat, it's good to know that Mezcal is not a type of Tequila. Tequila is a specific type of Mezcal. I know- who saw that twist coming? In very broad terms, the name Mezcal has traditionally been used for all agave spirits made in Mexico. Since 1994, however, Mezcal has been recognized internationally as being a geographically protected region (Appellation of Origin, or AO) centered in the state of Oaxaca. So Tequila is a Mezcal by tradition but since it isn't from the name protected region...it can't be labeled as Mezcal. Still with me? Good...because Tequila has its own rules.
To be called Tequila, the spirit must be made in Mexico, specifically in the state of Jalisco or in limited municipalities in the states of Guanajuato, Michoacán, Nayarit, and Tamaulipas and must be made from at least 51% Blue (Weber) Agave. This is where we run into trouble. Most people who say they don't like Tequila, have formed that opinion based on drinking really bad Tequila. Unless it says "100% Agave" on the label, it can basically use lawn clippings and sawdust to makeup the remainder of the mashbill. Many perfectly nice people have experienced one or more perfectly not nice nights with this version.
It is time to right that wrong.
At its best, Tequila is an elegant, nuanced spirit with herbaceous notes, sometimes showing pepper, fruit, vanilla, and a pleasant earthiness. Good tequila can be taken neat or made into a cocktail. Though there are plenty of great cocktails which can be made with Tequila, the most popular by far (and for good reason) is the Margarita. The exact ratios are to be argued over for all eternity, but here is The International Bartenders Association standard recipe (I don't know why the picture on their website shows a blue drink. A Margarita should not be blue):
https://iba-world.com/iba-cocktail/margarita/
Remember, if you are making a Margarita, you are only using 3 ingredients, so it is important to use the best quality possible. Good tequila, fresh lime juice (never never never sweetened "Margarita mix") and a good triple sec or Curacao (orange liqueur). These two are our favorites. They will change your whole approach to Margaritas:
https://www.compasswines.com/flor-de-azar-triple-sec-spfdats750-50280/
https://www.compasswines.com/pierre-ferrand-dry-curacao-1-liter-sppferrdr1l-48242/
Tequila has a pretty straightforward system for labeling the age of what's in the bottle:
Blanco/ Silver- This means that the spirit has spent no more than two months in the barrel before bottling. This is the most common choice for making margaritas. Flavors should be clean and fresh and can even have a bit of wood influence, if they have been in the barrel for several weeks. Some of our favorites...
https://www.compasswines.com/herencia-blanco-750-spherbla750-48978/
https://www.compasswines.com/g4-blanco-tequila-spg4bl750-37546/
Reposado- The tequila has spent no less than two months and no more than a year in oak. The aging mellows the Tequila and it takes on more woody vanilla notes from the barrelc while retaining a good amount of the wonderful agave flavor. These are often excellent sippers straight but can also make some of the best Margaritas (at least in my opinion- and I'm the one writing the newsletter ; ). Try these..
https://www.compasswines.com/don-abraham-organic-reposado-tequila-spdarep750-49754/
https://www.compasswines.com/la-gritona-reposado-splagre750-37582/
Añejo- Now we are moving away from what is generally used for Margaritas. Anejos must spend between one and three years in the barrel. These are more akin to a good whiskey and are usually taken neat, although they can certainly work in a cocktail.
Extra Añejo- The newest addition to Tequila classifications, these have aged more than three years. They show much more wood, spice, and depth. Definitely sippers, not mixers. This is serious stuff.
https://www.compasswines.com/imperio-del-don-extra-anejo-10-year-old-tequila-sp-imdon10750-46150/
On to Mezcal! Like Tequila, Mezcal is made by distilling the juice of the agave plant. So it should taste the same, right? Well, no. Mezcal can use whatever variety of agave the producer wants (remember, tequila can only use Blue Agave) and often include several varieties (most of them growing wild). The production methods are usually much less industrialized, and most significantly, often use wood or charcoal to cook the agave piñas (hearts) before distilling. This can impart a range of smoky flavors often associated with Mezcal. There is huge variation from producer to producer. Some are less smoky, some more vegetal, etc. The age statements for Mezcal are basically the same as Tequila except Mezcal generally uses the term "joven" (young) in place of "blanco". Since there is a huge range of flavors in Mezcal, it is a good idea to try several to get a good idea of what you like. These samplers are a great place to start...
https://www.compasswines.com/yuu-baal-mezcal-sampler-gift-set-spybset150-50316/
For a less smoky, very approachable but still incredibly complex option, try this one. the words "100% Maguey Espadin" on the label refer to the varietal of agave used, in this case it's the common name for Agave Angustifolia ...
https://www.compasswines.com/the-lost-explorer-espadin-mezcal-sptleme8750-50281/
Finally I need to mention Pechuga. Pechugas can be thought of as special occasion Mezcals. They often use a protein, such as turkey or lamb, in the distillation process. Traditionally, that would be an extravagance only reserved for special bottles. It might sound odd, but it adds another layer of savory umaminess to the spirit. This is a fine example...
https://www.compasswines.com/yuu-baal-pechuga-maguey-espadin-mezcal-spybpe750-46148/
And this is for advanced Pechuga students (bow hunted venison heart, from the estate)...
https://www.compasswines.com/origen-raiz-pecho-de-venado-pechuga-malpais-mezcal-spraismalp750-50517/
I will save the other types of agave spirits for another newsletter. Thanks for reading!