Reynvaan The Contender 2019

Multilayered and harmonious, this Syrah is handsomely structured, with plum and raspberry flavors framed by black olive, smoked pepper and sweet anise. Builds richness toward piquant tannins. Drink now through 2030. —T.F.

The 2019 Syrah The Contender (which includes 6% Marsanne) comes from the In the Rocks Vineyard in the Rocks region of Walla Walla Valley. It has a more reductive vibe in its darker blue and black fruits as well as crushed stone, new leather, dried flowers, and graphite aromas and flavors. Nicely balanced on the palate and medium to full-bodied, it has a more structured, tight, backward style, with some troubling obvious SO2 notes (hence the ? on the score), and the cellar is going to be your friend on this one. Hide bottles for 4-5 years, and it should see its 20th birthday in fine form.

Opening with a generous nose of turned earth, wilted lavender and worn leather, the 2019 Syrah The Contender, made with 6% Marsanne, presents an open-knit and savory profile, with the fruit condition leaning toward baked fruits. Medium-bodied, the fruit takes a backseat on the palate, allowing tertiary and earthy flavors to dominate. Notes of scorched earth and baked clay emerge alongside gripping tannins that unveil soft hints of bitter dark chocolate. The wine evolves gracefully, culminating in a mineral-laced finish. Best enjoyed with dry-aged beef.